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Gary R Johnson, Associate Professor, Urban Forestry*
J. Rebecca Hargrave, Graduate Assistant
Once you've got your new tree home you need to get it in the ground, as soon as possible.
For balled and burlap and containerized trees always move the tree by the ball/container, never by the stem.
Step 1: Trees should be planted with their root flare even with the soil line. Due to different nursery practices the root flare may be buried under the soil. In container stock the root flare should be visible, but for balled trees the soil will be covered with burlap. Do not remove the burlap. It will make the rest of planting hard. [For methods to determine root flare position see the end of this publication.]
Step 2: Measure the height and width of the ball or container. Take into consideration the distance to the buried root flare and subtract that depth from the ball/container height.
Step 3: Determine where you want to plant the tree and dig or till an area at least three times the width of the ball. The planting hole needs to be at least one foot larger than the width of the ball. Only dig the hole as deep as the adjusted height of the ball so that the tree will not sink once the soil settles.
If the tree is containerized:
Step 4: Remove the container. If roots are present around the edges uncoil or cut as many as you can without destroying the soil mass. Three or four vertical slices are commonly recommended.
If the tree is balled and burlaped:
Step 4: Center the tree in the planting hole. Fill in the planting hole half way to stabilize the soil ball.
Step 4a: Remove the twine surrounding the ball.
Step 4b: If there is a wire basket around the ball cut off at least the top two rows (or as much as possible) with wire cutters and push the remaining basket down to the bottom of the hole.
Step 4c: Remove pins/nails holding burlap in. Pull back (remove) as much burlap as possible- it may have to be cut so that it can be fully pulled back.
Step 5: Make sure that the tree is centered and straight, and the root flare is even with the soil line. Finish back filling, pushing the soil down gently as you go.
Do not remove soil from the sides of the soil ball. Do remove excess soil from over the root system
Once the tree is back-filled, gently tamp (do not compact) and thoroughly water the root ball and surrounding soil to remove air pockets around in the soil. Give the tree 5-7 gallons of water with each irrigation.
Spread mulch 2-3" deep at least 1' around the tree. Be sure to keep mulch from coming in contact with the trunk (pull it back from the bark). Mulch will also reduce lawnmower injury and competition from turf grass.
Give the tree plenty of water from a bucket or hose set at a low pressure. It's often best to stick the hose in the mulch so that it reaches the soil quicker. Remember to water your tree every few days for at least the first growing season. Also, your tree will need extra water during dry periods. Fertilization is not recommended or necessary during the first year.
Tips to reduce the amount of work you have to do:
- Rent a garden tiller to loosen the circle of soil around the planting hole; move the tree around on a dolly or cart. If someone else plants it for you make sure they follow the proper guidelines.
- Planting trees and shrubs in groups will also cut down on the total amount of soil that has to be loosened. Remember to give each tree enough space to grow.
Root Flare Position:
The best method to find the first order roots (the roots that come from the root flare) is to take a piece of wire and gently poke through the burlap or soil near the trunk until you hit something solid- mark the distance the wire went into the soil.
Pull back the top of the burlap and dig with your hands or a trowel until you reach the root flare, but only after the tree has been stabilized in the planting hole.
If your tree does have a buried root system, remove the soil on top of the root system when you are back filling the tree. Be careful not to remove the burlap or wire basket before planting because it will make moving the tree more difficult.
* Department of Forest Resources, College of Natural Resources, University of Minnesota
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